HOG Rigging Guide

[Tek_Divr]

These are the parts you start with:

These are the parts you start with: Roll of Resin reinforced 2” webbing, Knife with sheath, 3 pieces of inner tube, 1 waist buckle, 2 bent Drings, 1 straight Dring, 3 serrated keepers. The crotch strap is furnished assembled with the sewn in “Scooter” dring, the “butt” dring and serrated keeper, and the plain keeper used to secure it to the backplate.

1. Plate shown with the tank side up. Position the middle of the 2” webbing on the middle of the tank side of the back plate. Feed the webbing through the angled slots to the diver’s side of the plate, and back through the upper slots.

2. Plate shown with diver’s side up. First slide one piece of the inner tube up the left strap, and fit one bent dring and keeper on each shoulder strap.


3.Plate Shown with diver’s side up. Slide one piece of inner tube on to each shoulder below the Dring. Feed the shoulder straps through the lower harness slots.The outside edge of the shoulder strap should be in contact with the top of the inner slot.


4. Plate shown with diver’s side up. Feed the end of the webbing back thru the outboard slot, this becomes the waist strap. Please note:The DSS Stainless Back Plates include molded in rubber strips inside the lower slots to keep the webbing from slipping, there is no need to put weight belt keepers on the backside of the plate. Fit one of the straight drings on the left waist strap, and slide the knife sheath on to the left waist strap.


5. Plate shown from both sides. Lace the crotch strap through the horizontal slot the bottom of the plate and back through the plain keeper a second time. The webbing goes through the keeper, through the plate and then back through the keeper a second time. The fourth dring, one of the straight
drings, is shipped already laced onto the crotch strap. After adjusting the harness and crotch strap this “butt” d ring should be about one “hand” below the lower edge of the plate.


6. This is the Basic Rigged HOG Harness, now it needs to be adjusted to fit the diver.


Text & photos reprinted courtesy of Brian at Deep Sea Supply

[Mike V]

Great post with good info.

Question: is the crotch strap absolutely necessary for single tank, tropical style diving if the shoulder and waist straps fit nice and snug?

[Packhorse]

I dont know about absolutely necessary but I highly recommend it. It stops the bottom of the rig floating up and makes it all so much more a part of you. Its not at all uncomftable.

[Humanphibian]

I agree....use it.

After a dive or two...you will forget it's there.

[Zero]

If the resin reinforced stuff is too uncomfortable you could use normal 2" webbing, seat belt webbing or even go to 1". I run 1" on my transpac and on my backpack and never notice it.

Matt

[amtrosie]

If the resin reinforced stuff is too uncomfortable you could use normal 2" webbing, seat belt webbing or even go to 1". I run 1" on my transpac and on my backpack and never notice it.

Matt

Zero,

2" webbing is reinforced to add durability for supporting your tanks (read more than 1). Seat belt webbing is not nearly durable to support the tanks and equipment you will be diving. The same argument for the 1" webbing. Believe me, you do not notice the webbing after a dive, or during it either. Remember the diver positioning thru-out the dive (horizontal).

[BamaCaveDiver]

If the resin reinforced stuff is too uncomfortable you could use normal 2" webbing, seat belt webbing or even go to 1". I run 1" on my transpac and on my backpack and never notice it.

Matt

I take it that you don't scooter, trust me when I say that the 2 inch is a lot more comfortable

[Tigerbeach]

Great post with good info.

Question: is the crotch strap absolutely necessary for single tank, tropical style diving if the shoulder and waist straps fit nice and snug?

NO.

For a tropical rig mounted on just a backpack, a crotch strap is not necessary.
The tank won't just go floating around, either.