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Thread: Yolk vs DIN

  1. #11
    Registered Users Sarah's Avatar
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    You have more than a few choices here on what you can do, so now the bottom line is up to you.
    Oh, that just begs for a rhyme rendition:


    A yoke can blow that dried up o-ring
    Without a spare, you'll feel the sting
    You may throw the old yoke, in the bin,
    And come up to date, with the DIN
    You've now got more choices, on what to do,
    So the bottom line, it's up to you


    Ok, so I just woke up this a.m.


  2. #12
    Wreck Diving Moderator acelockco's Avatar
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    BUT....

    If you remember our thread on Save A Dive Kits and you have one, extra O_Rings are not a problem.

  3. #13
    Cave Diver amtrosie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hbh2oguard View Post
    Ace I was think about that but the guy at the LDS said o rings blow out all the time with the extra pressure and it's bad for the reg. Don't know if that's true, any opinions?



    I have several things to say, while I am stuck on land due to bad seas and not able to dive, GARBAGE, GARBAGE GARBAGE!!!!!! That is truly the most idiotic thing I have heard in a while! These are high pressure regs to begin with. 3000 psi. is high pressure, 500 psi. is not extra higher pressure. (What is this super secret double probation? [Animal House reference]). The regulator, provided it is serviced annually (per manf. specs.), is designed, and capable of handling this and higher pressures. I have been diving DIN regulators, Mares and Scubapro, for 12 or 13 years and servicing them for longer. The only regs that show unusual wear, are the ones that are not serviced regularly! This is all a function of maintaining the correct Intermediate pressure on the first stage.
    That is yoke or DIN.

    The profile of a Din is smaller and less obtrusive and less prone to failures. The O-ring on the yoke is exposed to all and wears out much quicker than a DIN O-ring (which is mounted on the regulator itself)

    Now if the tank is to your liking and the valve is not, you can sell the valve, buy a "standard" valve as a replacement. This is a store/site that could help you. http://www.diveriteexpress.com/gas/thermo.shtml
    It has the added benefit of being able "convert" back and forth, should you so choose. The other consideration, as Papabear indicated, is the ability to get a "true" fill of your HP tank. Here in Florida, and especially in cave country, a good fill is readily available.

    I have L.P. tanks (2640 & 2100 psi. working pressure), I have H.P. tanks (3442 psi. working pressure), I have standard tanks (3000 psi. working pressure). They each have their purpose, and are dove in certain combinations and/or situations. What is not changing, are my regulators!

    What it boils down to is simply this, what diving are you going to do? What should not be a factoring consideration is whether or not your regulators can handle the various pressures. They can, how about you?

  4. #14
    Registered Users hbh2oguard's Avatar
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    amtrosie that's kind of what I thought, what's another 500psi, and I don't do tons of boat diving so getting a fill isn't a problem.
    papa I also see your side to it. I keep an eye out for a lp tank, or switch the valve on the tank I have.

  5. #15
    Cave Diver BamaCaveDiver's Avatar
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    I'd be happy to swap you an old yoke valve or two for the DIN valve (DIN is all I use these days, so I have a pile of old yoke valves laying around.) At the higher pressures you will go through a lot more orings on your yoke connection, but that mk25 will not miss a beat. Mine have seen 4000psi starting pressures on a regular basis and it took quite a few dives (read multiple years) before the HP seat began to leak a bit (easy fix.) Just about all regulators manufactured today are 300 BAR regs, which mean they will easily handle the extra pressure at the beginning of each dive. It is a simple task to replace the yoke on your reg with a DIN fitting, and the $120 sounds about right if you are paying shop labor to have someone else do it for you (the parts themselve can be had for half that or less, depending upon the quality you settle for - e.g. plastic handwheel can be had cheap while the metal handwheels are much more expensive.) It is a relatively simple task to make the switch yourself, you just need to know how to use a torque wrench.

  6. #16
    Wreck Diving Moderator acelockco's Avatar
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    Bama,

    Now that sounds like the best plan for him.

    He does not even need a torque wrench, he can put the thing on hand tight and bring it to the shop for its VIS inspection, of course they will take off the valve and reinstall it when done. Our local shop charges $15 for the VIS.

    So if he makes a trade with you and brings his cylinder to his LDS, he will only be out $15 more and be able to use his new cyl.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by hbh2oguard View Post
    I know the obvious differences but I can't decide if I want to spend the money to convert my reg to DIN. I just picked up a steel HP100 with a din valve for $70. So I couldn't pass it up, but it's going to cost $100-120 to convert my reg to din with the yolk adapter. Just would like a little input. It seems like the converter for din to yolk pushes the reg against your head, just wonder if that's true.
    So you have YOKE reg and DIN tank valve. You should be able to find the threaded insert that goes into a DIN valve allowing a YOKE reg to attach and work just fine. Some valves actually come with the insert - I have one, but it's DIN 200. If your tank is DIN300, then you need to check out some on-line dive shops and get one. It will NOT be $100-120, but should be A LOT less.

    Cheers,

    -S

  8. #18
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    not all din valves are able to accomodate the thing that screws in to make it yoke. the one i just bought second hand did not. so i bought the conversion for my reg. cost like $40. and i can change my reg back and forth din to yoke in seconds. but after using din I have a strong preferance for it and I am selling all my aluminum yoke tanks.

  9. #19
    Registered Users hbh2oguard's Avatar
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    Bama it's a thermo 3500 DIN http://www.thermovalves.com/scuba_outlets.htm
    the last one on the page. It's a pretty small neck not exactly sure what size. If you have a K valve you think would work at high pressure I'd be happy to switch. Just one question, normally an o ring blows when taking off the reg or just turing it on, or can it blow when ever?

  10. #20
    Wreck Diving Moderator acelockco's Avatar
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    Of course it can blow whenever, but 99.9% of the time they start to leak right when you turn the pressure on. If you get the better o-rings they really will last longer. Then again, if you just buy the cheep ones and replace them every 10 uses or so, you should never really have a problem.

    In fact in the 80 or so dives my wife and I did over this summer, we only had one o-ring go, and it was my fault as I tried to turn my first stage when it was already connedted and I ripped the o-ring.

    I did notice that a lot of the o-rings go bad on rental tanks, but I think they just use them untill it completely fails or someone complains.

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